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Alpine Amusement

As the ski season gets into full swing many winter sport enthusiasts are preparing to escape to the Alps for some mountainous fun; but where exactly is the best skiing holiday to be found?

by Domhnall O' Sullivan

Although the recent spell of arctic weather which inflicted itself upon Western Europe effectively paralysed many of the region’s major airports and disrupted countless festive reunions, it wasn’t all bad news. The wintry conditions which swept across the continent at Christmas have meant that, after a relatively slow start to the season, most European ski stations are now suitably snowed under and ready for action.

Due to the broad gamut of options available however, sometimes simply choosing where to go on your dream winter break can prove to be even trickier than negotiating an icy, mogul-strewn black run. Travel agencies and specialist tour operators frequently offer packages which guarantee endless sport both on and off the slopes, but there are many other factors which must be taken into consideration when booking. So many that overwhelmed skiers simply follow the crowd and flock to the biggest or most popular station on offer.

So just how can the winter shopper hope to make the distinction between Seefeld and Sellafield, or Aprica and paprika? And should you be more concerned about the number of metres above sea level of a potential destination or the number of après-ski bars to be found within schussing distance of your chalet? In fact, how does one even go about deciding which country to choose?

Some of these decisions will ultimately be settled by personal taste (and bedtime), but choice of station should be first and foremost influenced by the nation in which it finds itself. And although some countries considered “off the beaten piste” such as Spain, Norway, Slovakia or even Scotland can offer budget-friendly and often less crowded slopes, it’s still all about the Alps.

FRANCE

Why go there? It’s no accident that France is usually the nation which first springs to mind when skiing is mentioned. Not only are most French Alpine stations purpose-built and modern with effective lift-systems, but the huge range of stations and activities on offer also means that neither the weak-kneed novice nor the seasoned skier will go wanting. Lovers of large can opt for Les 3 Vallées, the world’s biggest interconnected ski area, whereas those in search of a more peaceful and traditional holiday can check out charming mountain villages such as Villard-de-Lans or Vaujany. The relatively close proximity of Lyon, Grenoble and Geneva airports also mean that French stations are easily accessible.

Why say non, merci? Of course so many advantages often come at a price, and as Confucius once so elegantly put it, “quality skiing holidays in France they come not cheap”. Although some of the smaller stations may be relatively affordable, ski-passes (not to mention accommodation) in most of the major resorts are discouragingly pricey. Another problem is crowded pistes: at some points during peak season the slopes can become claustrophobically overrun by hordes of excited tourists. While this is manageable for the nimble veteran who can weave his way through the bodies, it is enough to put off any nervous novice. The second half of February and first week in March are especially to be avoided; school holidays mean that vin-chaud-fuelled French skiers are also added to the equation, with the result being even more bottlenecks and traffic jams on pistes and roads alike.

Top tip for 2011? Situated just 45 minutes from Grenoble, the village station of Vaujany offers the perfect balance between both ends of the ski-holiday spectrum. Although appearing at first glance to be a quaint cliché of a French alpine village, complete with narrow winding streets and cosy restaurants more homely than touristy, don’t be fooled: there is enough après-ski and entertainment to be found to satisfy all but the most hard-core of revellers. As regards skiing, if the 41 slopes on offer (which cater for all levels, beginners don’t beware) lose their allure after several days of serious schussing, an extra €16 per day will give you direct access to the huge interconnected ski area of Alpe d’Huez. Get to Vaujany quickly however; its charm and practicality have been growing in reputation in recent years and it could be just a matter of time before it becomes just another faceless resort.

ITALY

Why go there? Apart from the obvious allure of a mouth-watering pasta dish and a bottle of Chianti to round off a day on the slopes, the main attraction of Italian resorts is their price-tag. Staying away from some of the larger and “posher” stations such as Courmayeur it is by and large cheaper to ski in most Italian stations. Tourists are also that little bit less abundant, which allows you to ski side-by-side with the friendly and hospitable locals. And although the image-conscious Italians are often criticised for worrying more about their Dolce and Gabbana snow boots than their carving technique, who cares? The more time they spend on the deckchairs topping up their “winter-bronzed” suntan the more time you get to spend on clear slopes.

Why say no, grazie? Although the maxim of “you get what you pay for” is not always true when it comes to ski holidays, beware of Italian stations which offer prices which seem too low to be true; they may be accompanied by infrastructure which is correspondingly sub-standard. Another major problem with Italian Alpine resorts is accessibility; the airports of Turin, Milan and Bergamo aren’t nestled in the mountains as snugly as Grenoble or Geneva for example, and transfers by bus or car to the slopes can be painfully long.

Top tip for 2011? This is exactly the case for the resort of Livigno, which can take an eternity to reach from Bergamo. However, the coach-sickness is more than worth it, as Livigno, like Vaujany, offers an ideal mix of everything that is needed to enjoy a week in the snow. The village is typically Italian and welcoming, light-years from the snobby Dolce Vita of some of the larger Dolomite stations, while efficient and modern lift-systems take you to slopes which cater for both greenhorns and gurus alike. Finally, although the après-ski is perhaps not as animated as in some European resorts, the revelry comes at rock-bottom prices, thanks largely to Livigno’s tax-free status.

AUSTRIA

Why go there? If you’re in search of a “safe bet” holiday which offers relatively good bang for your buck, Austria is the place to go. Neither astronomically expensive nor exceptionally cheap, an Austrian ski holiday guarantees you a warm reception by the generally friendly natives, (marginally) less tourists than would be found in French resorts, and a huge variety of stations and slopes from which to choose. Above all, however, Austria is renowned as the après-ski capital of the Alps, and it is alcoholically acceptable to start the evening’s festivities on the slopes before weaving your way back to the village in the half-light, half-drunk.

Why say nein, danke? Finding a generic fault with Austrian ski resorts is not easy. One nit-pick is that many of the stations are situated at slightly lower altitudes than their French, Italian and Swiss counterparts; early and late season skiing can thus occasionally be hampered by  a lack of snow, and researching weather conditions is advised before travelling. One other minor niggle is that, with the exception of Innsbruck and to a lesser extent Salzburg, the distance from airport to piste in Austria is slightly greater than in France and Switzerland.

Top tip for 2011? Although it is often advised to stay away from the larger, mass-tourist orientated stations, when it comes to Austria it is hard to resist the pull of St Anton. Sitting less than an hour from Innsbruck, this long-established resort has come to be renowned for one thing above all others; partying. If Austria is the European capital of après-ski (soundly and ironically beating the Gallic inventors of the phrase) then St Anton is its headquarters. Bars blasting cheesy Europop music literally litter the slopes, while a glass of steaming gluhwein will never be more than an arms-length away. And if you also want to ski? 280 kilometres of more than adequate pistes are on offer to blow the cobwebs from any hangover.

SWITZERLAND

Why go there? The decision of various celebrities such as James Blunt to settle in the Swiss Alps may have more to do with taxation than ski stations, but one can only presume that they get up to a bit of winter sport every now and then as well.  Switzerland boasts some of the world’s top ski resorts such as Verbier and St Moritz, and for the smallest of our Alpine nations it offers a surprisingly vast range of choice for the winter holidaymaker. French functionality and Austrian affability are pleasantly combined in stations which are easily reached from the Swiss airports of Berne, Zurich or Sion.

Why say nein, merci? The thing about celebrities, of course, is that they generally have lots of money. And this is also what skiers will have to fork out if they are planning on a Swiss ski holiday. St Moritz has become known as catering exclusively for the rich and famous, while just one day on the slopes at Verbier can cost up to a whopping €67. Furthermore, although the quality of pistes is accordingly good, many Swiss stations are geared towards the already accomplished skier; beginners may find a shortage of slopes which don’t point downhill like scarily acute angles.

Top tip for 2011? It still isn’t cheap but the resort of Saas Fee will at least allow you to avoid the sometimes excessive glamour of the “celebrity-resorts”. Located near the Italian border in the heart of the Alps, Saas Fee is a typically Swiss village whose charming narrow streets and traditional appearance should not be confused with a lack of animation; there are enough bars, restaurants and tourists in the town to ensure that there is no chance of evening boredom. As for the slopes, like many Swiss stations Saas Fee is not a beginner’s paradise, although you don’t need to be an expert to enjoy the range of slopes on offer either. The altitude of the resort (1800-3500m) guarantees excellent snow conditions at almost any point during the ski season.

See also: Europe's Most Exclusive Winter Destinations: St. Moritz